You can measure water evaporation in your pool by doing the bucket test. Place a five-gallon bucket on the second pool step and fill it to match the water level of the pool (probably have to put concrete block in bucket before you fill it with water to help keep in place). Over the course of 2-3 days the bucket will lose water from evaporation and gain water from rainfall at the same rate as your pool! As long as there is no splash-out or backwashing during that time, if the pool level drops more than the bucket level then you may have a leak.
Your pump and filter will be sized according to the volume of water in your pool. The main objective of any filtration system is the ability to turn over all the water in your pool at least once within a period of 12 hours. A Hayward 1 to 1 ½ hp super pump is usually sufficient for most residential pools.
There are a few reasons why you could lose water in your pool over the winter. It is possible that you could have a leak in the liner, the winter cover could have a hole in it and as you pump the water off of the cover you are actually pumping out the pool water or the most common is the weight of the snow, ice, and water on top of the cover pushing down on the water in the pool and forcing the water out over the pool sides. We highly recommend a solid safety cover to help prevent this problem from reoccurring.
We highly recommend that you have a pool professional open and close your pool. Many pool owners try to open and close their pool themselves, without the proper equipment, knowledge, and manpower, it is more difficult than it looks. The greatest risk is in winterizing the pool. If done incorrectly it could lead to a broken skimmer, return lines, pump and/or filter. This could be a very costly mistake.
We would recommend a solid safety cover for all types of pools. Safety Covers are designed to protect both your pool and your family. Pool covers are manufactured to your specific pool size and shape, when properly installed; the safety cover will help prevent accidental intrusion by children and pets. These covers also have a drain strip in the center to allow water to flow into the pool without debris. A higher water level in a vinyl liner pool can prevent the liner from floating and a gunite pool could be forced out of the ground if the ground water is greater than the water in the pool.
The saltwater pool system uses electrolysis to produce low levels of natural chlorine. This way it’s easier to achieve balanced water and the pool requires less attention and fewer chemicals than chlorinated pools.
Chlorine pools are less expensive to install than saltwater systems. However, freshwater chlorine systems require more maintenance and monitoring to keep them clean and not overly chlorinated.
Your pool filter is the single most important component in keeping your swimming pool clean. Ideally, a filter should run all the time for maximum circulation and debris removal. Ultimately you want to circulate the water in your entire pool fully once a day. A minimum of 10 to 12 hours a day in summer and 4 to 6 hours per day in the winter is highly recommended.
Yes. Dirt, pollen, and algae will naturally collect in all the crevices of your pool, so use a pool brush to break it up. Regular churning of the water (from brushing or swimming) will give the filter an opportunity to suck up the debris before it settles.
Cartridge filters and DE filter work best for inground pools. Most models of filters can be grouped based on the type of swimming pool they work best and the type of filtration method they have. The three popular types of filters on the market are diatomaceous earth, sand and cartridge.
Typically, we recommend that your cartridges inside your filter be cleaned every 3 months for longevity of your cartridges, as well as for better pool filtration and water flow.
Perhaps. Even salt water pools may require shock from time to time. When chlorine kills something it binds to it and becomes ineffective. This bond produces chloramines in the water which must be broken down for chlorine to become effective again. The purpose of shocking is to remove the chloramines or dead stuff floating around unseen in the water.
Not daily chlorine. The beauty of the salt water system is that it converts salt into chlorine, so with the exception of your weekly shocking, you’re good to go.
It’s best to wait 8 to 12 hours before swimming when shocking with a heavy duty chlorine shock.
Like pure soap makers keep insisting, the right pH balance keeps things safe and healthy. Additionally, a good pH reading makes your eyes feel comfortable under water as our eyes are 7.5. Bonus: your chlorine works better when your pH is good! Your alkalinity should be in the range of 80 to 150 ppm for sanitary swimming conditions.
There are many causes for cloudy water. These range from poor filtration, high pH, to swimmers leaving behind too much sunscreen. This is another reason for regular maintenance visits to stay on top of your pools chemistry.
You can swim while your robot cleans the pool, but it is better not to. Swimming churns up the water. If the machine is in the water at the time, the current will move the debris, making it harder for it to complete its work. It’ll have to work harder to cover the same ground.
If everything looks like it’s in good shape with the overall pump, it’s time to move onto the motor. If you hear a loud grinding sound, it’s usually a sign that the bearings are getting worn down.